Pictures from Hoi An, Vietnam

A Traditional Hoi An Welcome

Traveling Restaurant

Bicycle and Temple Wall

Superstar!!!

Cyclo Drivers at Work

Dapper Gentleman of Hoi An

New Year's Day Offerings
(I hope the ancestors like that stuff!)

End of the Day

Laotian Culture, Education and the Monastic System

Temple Relics

The monastic system plays a variety of roles in Laotian society. In addition to the obvious religious role, a temple serves as something akin to an orphanage, rehabilitation center and soup kitchen. Additionally, monasteries provide Laotians an opportunity for education that they would not otherwise have.

Most Laotians live in small villages where only a primary, and perhaps secondary education is available. Unless a child lives in a large town, getting a high school education means relocating. This would not be economically feasible for most families unless the child enters a monastery. In fact, when asked, almost all the novices that I spoke to said that they entered the monastery to get an education. It should be noted, however, that this was not necessarily their sole reason for becoming a novice.

Temple Doors

It seems that the “monk schools” that the novices attend give them a well rounded education. They not only study Buddhist dharma, but also the usual highschool topics: math, physics, geography, chemistry, languages and such. I was quite surprised to find that the teachers at monk school are not necessarily monks themselves. In fact one novice told me that none of his teachers were monks, even the teacher for his Buddhist dharma class. However, the novice was quick to point out that this teacher had been a monk and that his knowledge of Buddhism was extensive.

Unfortunately, it is difficult (though not impossible) for monks to go to university in the town of Luang Prabang. The only university in Luang Prabang is private (read costly) and is some distance away from most of the monasteries. With a lack of income, and all their other duties to attend to, it is very trying for monks to attend this university. In the capital city of Vientienne, things are much less difficult, as there is a “Monk University.” Unfortunately, it is not easy to join a monastery in Vientienne as space in the monasteries is limited.

Sunset on the Mekong, Luang Prabang

The monasteries also provide a range of social services. It is common for children to become novices because their families cannot afford to keep them. Adults may enter the monastery to help them to deal with alcoholism. The destitute, homeless or insane can eat the food left over after the monks have their meals. In fact, when collecting alms monks give any excess rice to poor children along the route, and often save the treats they receive for later distribution. A Temple also serve as the social hub of a village, as most villagers visit the temple just about every day. An American we met who is now a monk in Laos told us that the temple is also the place where locals meet and exchange gossip.

A Bevy of Buddhas

Before visiting Laos, I had assumed that most novices would become monks, and they would remain monks for the rest of their lives. The truth is that almost every boy will enter the monastery at some point in their life, but this can be for a matter of several years, months, or even weeks. This time spent as a novice is considered an important part of becoming a man. During the time he spends in the monastery, a novice lives by strict rules and receives training in the ways of Buddhism. A novice I spoke with said that he had seen many young men transformed from bad boys into good citizens by their time in the monastery. It is not too surprising that the ten rules that novices must live by are interpreted differently by different monasteries (for example, “thou shalt not kill” may or may not apply to mosquitoes). However, I was very surprised to find out that breaking the rules can result in the police coming and arresting the monk! It goes without saying that he will also be forced to leave the monastery.

Bamboo Bridge

While monasteries are the only chance that most boys have for a high school education, the sad corollary to this is that there is no such opportunity for girls. Girls may enter a nunnery, but I am told that they only enter for a very short time, and there is not a “nun school” for them. This certainly explains reports that at each higher level of education the ratio of men to women becomes more and more disproportionate. It also helps to explain why the literacy rate in Laos is only about fifty percent.

Meanwhile in Cambodia (more or less)...

Last night we went to our friend's friend's brother's wedding party. The only other "barang" at the party was a German tourist who agreed that the party was like a Khmer version of Octoberfest. So, this seems like a good morning to sit and post some pictures.

The Bangkok Airport looks as clean and modern as any I've seen. Amazingly, it shows no signs of having been the site of the recent protests. I don't know, but I've been told that after ousting the prime minister, the protesters stuck around and cleaned up the airport. Such a polite coup!

I've said it before, but I love the fact that the ruins of Angkor are still alive with human activity. Angkor Wat is an especially popular hangout for local people. Archaeologically, it would be better if everyone stayed away, but much would be lost if they did.

One of the main themes of Khmer temple carvings are the Apsara Dancers. This art form was nearly extinguished by the Khmer Rouge. Fortunately, it has been revived by some of the survivors of that era. It is fortunate that the temples contain so many carvings of Apsaras, because these images preserved forgotten dance postures.

This is a woman wearing a "Flying Peacock" costume. Notice the handles with which the dancer can move the wings. The wings are very cleverly designed so that they can be moved into a variety of postures and are not limited to simple flapping motions. I had not previously seen this costume, but it is definitely my favorite now.

This man was welding metal large metal shelves in a shop that we walked past.

We have been fortunate to make many friends in our visits to Cambodia. Our great friend Sophath and his wife Dahlin now have a lovely baby named Leak (pronounced Leah) who is one month old. Currently Dahlin and Leak are staying several hours drive from Siem Reap at Dahlin's parents' house. They are a lovely family, and are great cooks! Sophath works as a manager of a beautiful boutique guest house in Siem Reap, and being apart from his wife and child is very difficult for him. He misses his family so much that he says the sound of his daughter crying on the phone is sweet like music. This Monday Sophath will fulfill his life-long dream of starting to go to university. Sophath is also the King of Karaoke. Last night at the wedding party, we wondered where he had got to, then we saw he was on the stage entertaining the crowd!